‘The Queen Was Here’ plaque at Hung Hom station

A few years ago I visited Hung Hom station, and found a curious plaque in a forgotten corner of the concourse, the text on it stating “This plaque was unveiled by Her Majesty The Queen on 5th Mary 1975 to commemorate her visit to Hong Kong”. So what’s the story behind it?

Commemorative plaque unveiled by Her Majesty the Queen in 1975

Some history

The original terminus of the Kowloon Canton Railway was located at Tsim Sha Tsui, opening to passengers in 1916.

Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront viewed from the Star Ferry

But by the 1950s the constrained site could not handle the increase in rail traffic, so the search began for a new site for the rail terminus. A site on Hung Hom Bay was selected, with land reclamation started in 1960, and completed by 1966. Planning for the new station commenced in 1964, but construction did not commence until 1972.

By 1974 work was well underway on the new station, with plans made for Queen Elizabeth II to open the new station during her upcoming visit to Hong Kong in May 1975.

SCMP photo

But exceptionally heavy rainfall and a shortage of cement saw work on the new station delayed, leaving the station incomplete at the time of the royal visit.

Hong Kong Public Libraries image PH160626

So the solution – Queen Elizabeth II would still unveil a plaque.

Documentary via YouTube

But it would to commemorate her visit, instead of the opening of the station.

SCMP photo

The new station at Hung Hom was eventually opened by the acting Governor, Sir Denys Roberts, on 24 November 1975. Passenger services commenced using the station on 30 November 1975, the old Tsim Sha Tsui terminus having closed the day before.

source (Rear view)

Finding the plaque

The plaque is located on the west side of Hung Hum station, in a lower level corridor connecting exits A and D to the paid area.

Ticket barriers at Hung Hom station on the MTR

Further viewing

A Chinese-language documentary on the 1975 royal visit to Hong Kong.

Footnote: Australia did it too

During her 1980 visit to Australia, Queen Elizabeth II toured the yet to open Museum station in Melbourne, and unveiled a plaque at ‘Queen Elizabeth Plaza’.

Plaque marking the naming of 'Queen Elizabeth Plaza' by Her Majesty The Queen on 28 May 1980

The station itself not opening until January 1981, almost a year after the royal visit.

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Looking back at Hong Kong’s pig trains

One of Hong Kong’s most infamous stench was that of the pig trains, leaving a stinky trail as they made their way from mainland China along the Kowloon Canton Railway to Hung Hom, to feed a local population hungry for pork.

Liu Dongyuan photo

Some history

The first pig train from mainland China crossed the border into Hong Kong in 1962.

Previously, due to the lack of special trains, fresh and live commodities supplied to Hong Kong and Macao could only be transported as ordinary goods, and sometimes they had not yet reached the destination, and a large number of livestock and poultry had died. In 1961, under the care of Premier Zhou Enlai, the Ministry of Foreign Trade and the Ministry of Railways held a meeting in Shanghai and came up with a plan for express delivery.

On March 20, 1962, the first train for fresh and live goods to Hong Kong departed from Wuhan Jiang’an Station, that is, the subsequent train 751. A total of more than 30 carriages were dispatched, of which more than 20 were used to carry live pigs. The train ran for 52 hours and arrived at Shenzhen North Railway Station at around 4 am two days later, catching up with the morning market in Hong Kong. The transportation time has been shortened from the previous eight to ten days, to two to three days, and the full truckload of goods has been warmly welcomed by Hong Kong and Macao citizens.

Later, under the personal care of Premier Zhou, in December of the same year, 753 express train departed from Shanghai and 755 express train from Zhengzhou. So far, the 751, 753, and 755 “Three Express Trains” system has been formally formed, striving to ensure the stability of fresh commodities supplied to Hong Kong and Macao, and has played an immeasurable role in ensuring the supply of Hong Kong and Macao markets.

Escort staff accompanied each train to tend to the livestock.

The most tiring and hardest is the escort who follows the car. They boarded the train from the departure station, and were tied to the fate of the escorted animals and aquatic products. Poultry and livestock should be fed and fed, and live fish should not be deprived of oxygen. No matter which job is not done in place, its survival rate will be affected.

The job was a dirty one, having to ride with the pigs!

COFCO Group photo

With plenty of work to be done en-route.

To keep the carriages ventilated at all times in summer, “even if people don’t take a bath, make sure to let the pigs take a bath.” In winter, pigs are easily crushed to death because they are afraid of the cold, so the escorts will chase the pigs regularly.

Whether in spring, summer, autumn or winter, sweep the faeces several times a day to prevent illness or slip and fall injuries, and strive to minimise the fatality rate.

Worried that the locomotive whistle would frighten the livestock, the escorts loaded the first few carriages with dry goods, and ensuring that the livestock was as close to the water pipe as possible at the supply station.

“The place where the pile of feed is about 3-4 square meters on the wagon is where we sleep, and we can’t straighten our legs.” “We don’t dare to eat in restaurants because of the smell of pig belts.” “Wash with shampoo.” Three times, the hair is still stiff, and the stench can’t be dissipated.

The Central Committee of the Chinese Communist Party putting great effort into the sourcing of livestock to be supplied to Hong Kong.

The foreign trade department goes all out to organise the supply of goods. As the saying goes, the beginning of everything is difficult.

Foreign trade departments all over the country have special personnel who go deep into towns and villages to acquire living species such as chickens, ducks, geese, fish, cattle, sheep and pigs. These were the necessities of life that were in short supply in those days, and it was not easy to organise the supply of goods. They did not know how many times they hurried and traveled every day to complete the acquisition plan.

Then, these lively poultry and livestock are gathered together and transported to each station on time, waiting for loading and delivery. There can be no mistakes in every link of the whole process, otherwise, you will have to take responsibility for failing to complete the task. The personnel of the foreign trade department have been working like a day for decades, and it is hard to tell how much effort and sweat they have put in to ensure the normal operation of the trains supplying fresh materials to Hong Kong.

After the reform and opening up, the infrastructure construction in various places has been greatly improved. In Henan alone, there are more than 100 modern pig farms in the eleven counties that supply live pigs to Hong Kong, and tens of thousands of high-quality live pigs are produced every year. It is continuously shipped to Hong Kong and has become a delicacy on the table of Hong Kong compatriots.

Yet the trains were still hauled by steam locomotives on a single track railway.

In 1968, I graduated from the Railway Technical School and came to Wuhan Jiang’an Locomotive Depot. I was a stoker on a steam locomotive. Every day, the trains run through the Beijing-Guangzhou line on sweat and ashes. In the 1960s, the Beijing-Guangzhou Line had not yet fully double-track, and the double-track reconstruction project was being carried out intensely.

By the 1980s Changsha North Railway Station in Hunan Province on the Beijing–Guangzhou railway was the hub of the cross-border traffic, despatching 800,000 to 1.2 million tons of cargo a year. However by the late 1990s the market share by rail began to fall, thanks to the competition from trucks using China’s growing network of expressways.

120 km/h speed limit on this Chinese highway

In 2000 the KCRC phased out their freight forwarding business to the mainland, with train 751 from Changsha East suspended in 2004 along with live pig traffic. The final cross-border freight service was train 755 from Zhengzhou North station, which ended operations in 2010.

During the four decades that the trains operated, they transported more nearly 100 million live pigs, more than 5.8 million live cattle, nearly 8 million tons of frozen meat, billions of chickens, ducks and geese, and more than 2 million tons of frozen food, pond fish, fresh eggs, fresh fruits and vegetables.

Unloading the trains in Hong Kong

Initially livestock trains were unloaded at the freight yard at the original Mong Kok station, with livestock transported to two public slaughterhouses: Kennedy Town Slaughterhouse on Hong Kong Island and the Cheung Sha Wan Slaughterhouse in Kowloon, built in 1968 and 1969 respectively. They were joined in the early 1980s by three licensed private slaughterhouses, located at Tsuen Wan, Yuen Long and Tai Po.

People’s Daily Online photo

Growth in livestock traffic saw the traffic move to a dedicated livestock yard at Ho Man Tin in 1978.

HKU photo

Operator of the livestock yard, Ng Fung Storage and Transportation, had this to say on the yard.

Between the Kowloon Mong Kok Station and the Hung Hom Railway Station, few people notice that there are two railway tracks that silently separate from the main line and extend to a secluded place. The intersection of Princess Road and Kangzhuang Road Elevated Road, where cars are constantly flowing, crosses from above. Below is the operation site of our Ng Fung Storage and Transportation – Ho Man Tin Animal Unloading Area, which is also the front line of our work.

It was learned from the old staff of the storage and transportation that as early as 1978, the mainland supplied the livestock from Hong Kong by train, and the unloading area was transferred from the original Mong Kok Railway Station to Ho Man Tin. When we first entered Ho Man Tin, there were no ready-made buildings, and the wooden house built by ourselves became our temporary “office building”. Not only did the workers operate in very poor conditions, it was also difficult to find a place to shelter from the wind and rain.

It is under such difficult conditions that live pigs and live cattle with six or seventy trains are divided into three shifts every day to enter the unloading yard, and our employees will pick them up and unload them on the car, and then they will be sent to five places in Hong Kong, Kowloon and the New Territories. It is sold in a slaughterhouse, slaughtered, and then put on the market. In order to ensure the normal operation of live sales, our employees have almost no rest days for three hundred and sixty-five days a year. In summer, with the scorching sun and the stormy season, it is common to work in the wind and rain.

But by the 1990s operation of slaughterhouses in urban Hong Kong was considered on the nose, so the Legislative Council approved a total of $1.925 billion to build a new slaughterhouse at Sheung Shui to replace those at Kennedy Town, Cheung Sha Wan and Yuen Long.

The construction of Sheung Shui Slaughterhouse started in February 1997 and was completed in June 1999.

The new complex was located beside the Kowloon Canton Railway, and provided with a dedicated rail siding and unloading platform, allowing the retirement of the Ho Man Tin yard.

As we bid farewell to the 20th century, with the completion of the Sheung Shui Slaughterhouse, we must also bid farewell to this place where we have worked for twenty-one years. Looking back, it seems like it was yesterday. In the past 21 years, time has passed, we have unloaded more than 33 million live pigs and more than 1.7 million live cattle here; in these 21 years, several generations of Ng Fung Storage and Transportation employees have worked hard and dedicated silently. When we left When I was here, all that was left was the low and dilapidated office building and the memories that will never be erased.

After the relocation of the Ho Man Tin unloading yard, the nearby areas and residents no longer have to suffer from the smell of livestock, sewage and pollution. But after moving to Sheung Shui Slaughterhouse, our employees are still doing the same job, the work is still as mundane. The employees of Ng Fung Storage and Transportation are still working and dedicating silently. The difference is that, at the same time, it begins to silently meet new challenges.

Sheung Shui Slaughterhouse remains open today, but now served by trucks not rail.

Footnote: rolling stock

The first livestock trains used China Railways ‘J1’ and ‘J2’ livestock wagons, designed in 1963 for the long-distance transportation of live pigs, chickens and ducks, with a load of 15 tonnes.

China Travel Service photo

They were followed by the ‘J3’ livestock wagon in 1964, the ‘J4’ in 1966, the ‘J5’ (originally PJ2) in 1984, and the J6 type (originally PJ3) in 1986.

The two-tier wagon has ventilation and water supply equipment, with four 500L water tanks providing a total water storage capacity of 2000L. The later livestock wagons also featured a small staff compartment at one end, for the escort staff who tended to the animals during transport.

HKRail.net photo

So they didn’t need to ride inside the wagons with the livestock!


First up, a few pieces in English.

Chinese language articles that are pretty much PRC propaganda:

A piece from the local Hong Kong media, still Chinese language.

A look at the trains from a railfan perspective, again Chinese language.

And finally, lots of photos of the KCRC diesel hauled trains, including the pig traffic.

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Swapping left and right on the Tuen Ma Line

Road and rail traffic in Hong Kong usually moves on the left, but the recently completed Tuen Ma Line is a little different, with the eastern section running on the right, and switching back over to the left in the middle of Kowloon. So why does such a strange situation exist?

In the beginning

Hong Kong’s first railway line was single track, so there wasn’t a side for trains to take.

Photo via this blog.

But following the 1980s upgrade that duplicated and electrified the Kowloon Canton Railway, they had to pick a side – left, the same as road vehicles.

And so this remained the standard until the opening of the Ma On Shan line in 2004 – a 11.4 km long branch line serving nine stations in the Sha Tin District.

Ma On Shan line viaduct parallels the Shing Mun River

This line branched from Tai Wai on the East Rail line, where passengers could connect with trains headed under Lion Rock for Kowloon and Hong Kong Island.

Train arriving into a crowded platform

So the decision was made for trains on the Ma On Shan Line was run on the right.

Wu Kai Sha bound train arrives at Ma On Shan station

Allowing a cross platform interchange for passengers at Tai Wai.

MTR diagram

Enter the Sha Tin to Central Link project and the Tuen Ma line

After many years as just a proposal, in 2007 the Sha Tin to Central Link project was given the go-ahead, extending the East Rail line under Victoria Harbour to Hong Kong Island, and join the Ma On Shan line and the West Rail line into a single east-west corridor across the New Territories and Kowloon.

Shatin to Central link work site at Diamond Hill station

The latter connection was a new underground railway known as the “Tai Wai to Hung Hom section” of the Sha Tin to Central Link project, and included 11 kilometres track and six new intermediate stations.

The only problem – trains on the West Rail line line ran on the left like the rest of Hong Kong, not on the right like the Ma On Shan line.

Tuen Mun bound train approaches at Tin Shui Wai station

So the solution?

Triangle junction at Ngan Wai, with the West Rail viaduct in the background

No – not an at grade crossover – but some twists in the new section of underground tunnel.

The railway alignment runs from Sung Wong Toi station below Ma Tau Chung Road/Ma Tau Wai Road towards the west, reaching To Kwa Wan station. After leaving To Kwa Wan station, the alignment passes Ko Shan Road and joins the Ho Man Tin station at the intersection of Fat Kwong Street and Shun Yung Street.

As new station of line was built under narrow roads, with cut-and-cover station boxes connected by tunnels dug with a mixed ground TBM.

Tunnelling works for the Shatin to Central Link on Ma Tau Wai Road, To Kwa Wan

So the decision was made to build To Kwa Wan Station as a ‘stacked’ three level station.

MTR photo

Concourse on top, then platform 1 to Tuen Mun, and platform 2 to Wu Kai Sha at the bottom.

MTR diagram

The stacked tunnels splitting apart into two side-by-side left running tracks before reaching Ho Man Tin station, and into two side-by-side right running tunnels at Sung Wong Toi station.

MTR diagram

A clever adoption of what was otherwise a constraint placed on the design.

Footnote: what about the rail links into China?

Over in Mainland China cars drive on the right, so vehicles crossing the border from Hong Kong need to swap sides. But what about trains crossing the border to Lo Wu?

They get stay on the left hand side – because China Railways also uses left-hand running across their national network.

Overtaking a HXD3C class hauled passenger train on the 'old' Shanghai-Beijing railway

Further reading

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“Pretty as a postcard” at Hung Hom station

When you think picture postcard scenes of Hong Kong, you’d usually think of the view from Victoria Peak across Hong Kong Island to Kowloon, and the reverse view from Tsim Sha Tsui across the harbour to the Hong Kong skyline. But a postcard of Hung Hom station?

source (Rear view)

I guess you could say it is pretty by night.

source (Rear view)

But viewed across the tangle of roadways that lead to the Cross Harbour Tunnel?

(Rear view)

A view of the station forecourt?


Or across the bus interchange?

source (Rear view)

I wonder who the target audience of these postcards was – I doubt it was even railfans, because the trains should’ve been more prominent!

Footnote: the other end of the line

The other end of the Kowloon Canton Railway didn’t miss out on the postcard treatment – here we see Lo Wu station, at the border crossing with mainland China, complete with iconic red-white-blue bags.

source (Rear view)

Footnote: a Cross Harbour Tunnel tangent

I also found a postcard showing the Kowloon portal to the Cross Harbour Tunnel.

source (Rear view)

And another view by night.


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Ticket touts and the Hong Kong – Macau ferry

When looking at tourist guides, one piece of advice keeps coming up for the Hong Kong – Macau ferry – don’t buy tickets from the touts at the ferry pier. Yet the advice from my family in Hong Kong was the opposite – that’s how you can get a cheap ride. So what’s the real story?

TurboJet at Macau: catamaran on the left, Boeing Jetfoil on the right

Time to buy a ticket

When I arrived into the ferry terminal, the ticket touts are there to greet us.

Ticket touts at work at the Hong Kong China Ferry Terminal

Leading you towards their companion holding the tickets by the departure gates.

Ticket touts at work at the Hong Kong China Ferry Terminal

But the ticket counters are in the opposite direction.

Ticket windows at the Hong Kong China Ferry Terminal

We opted to buy tickets from the official counter, then headed for the departure gate.

Check-in gates at the Hong Kong China Ferry Terminal

Where gate staff assigned us seat numbers.

Gate staff place stickers on ferry tickets to indicate seat reservations

From a sheet of itty-bitty little stickers.

Counter staff hand out seat allocation stickers at the ferry boarding gate

After clearing immigration and customers, it was down the tamp to the ferry.

Walking down to the ferry

And we were on board.

Interior of TurboJet catamaran 'Universal MK 2005'

Advice from other tourists

Over at Tripadvisor, one reviewer says:

Don’t take any notice of individuals trying to sell you tickets go straight to your chose of jet ferry provider depending on which island you want to go to.

And another.

Beware of ticket touts who approach you before you can reach the official sales counters. May be persistent and irritating. Just ignore them and walk directly to sales counters to buy tickets.

And someone who got hustled by them.

As we were going up the escalator, some of my friends who reached the top ahead were hustled by this young man talking loudly and appearing very much in charge, saying we had to hurry because the ferry was leaving soon.

But it’s actually more complicated

The story this Yelp reviewer gave is the same one I got from my cousin – it’s not an outright scam.

You can get tickets by queuing at the counter. Or you can “get tickets” from the one of those strangers standing around scalping tickets at a discount. First of all, they are legit. They are often travel agents or tour groups, purchase ferry tickets in bulk from the ferry company. When they have residual tickets, they resell them individually, at a discount but still be able to make money, before the ferry departs and the tickets expired.

But their desire to offload tickets looks like a high-pressure scam.

The guy was probably one of the casino “brokers” who get wholesale tickets and resell them, so it’s not really a scam and he’s probably earning money. I guess the tickets were about to expire and he was at a rush to get rid of them. After the departure time, the tickets would be void.

But it appears the touts are also responsible for driving up the prices of ferry tickets.

But when it comes to holidays or weekends, the scalpers will usually set the ticket price above the official one according to the demand.

That time I did approach the suspected scalper and was later told that they sold each 12.30pm ticket for $50 more – I forgot how much the price was exactly. I saw the man inside the travel agency holding a thick stack of ferry tickets, and so you could image how much profit they could make if they sold them all.

Sometimes resulting in entire ferry sailings being sold out.

Ferry tickets at Sheung Wan sell out by the minute, and there are ferries every five minutes. Nearby tourist agencies offer ferry tickets for immediate departure in a system that can only be described as legalised scalping.

No wonder tickets sell out so quickly at the counter: the agencies buy out chunks of tickets for resale at inflated prices. This leads to the ‘waiting line’ extravaganza at the ferry terminal: you can depart on any ferry earlier than your ticketed ferry, so long as there are seats available.

So, for the next departing ferry, there are two lines: one for legitimate ticket holders, another a ‘waiting line’ for those who want an earlier ride. Once that ferry is full, the waiting line immediately dissipates to queue up for the next ferry. It’s certainly a game, and an easy game to get sucked into by the crowd

It appears the ticket touts have been at work for years – as this 2000 piece from the South China Morning Post attests.

A South China Morning Post investigation carried out before this weekend’s rush for tickets found the touts usually operate during the peak hour, between 5pm and 6pm.

Six men stood in front of TurboJet’s ticket booths offering tickets. ‘$160, $160’, they said, referring to the price of economy-class tickets on offer.

The scalpers work as a group.

On weekdays they sell the economy tickets – marked ‘complimentary’ – for $160, one dollar less than the normal night-service.

At weekends the economy tickets go for $200. It is believed the touts get the tickets from agents who make bulk bookings.

And laws against the practice passed way back in 1982.

Summary Offences (Amendment) Bill 1982

The Secretary for Security moved the second reading of:―‘A bill to amend the Summary Offences Ordinance’.

He said:―Sir, I move the second reading of the Summary Offences (Amendment) Bill 1982, the purpose of which is to prevent the resale at a profit of travel tickets in public places.

In order for the Police to take action under existing legislation, the activities of ‘ticket touts’ must be quote, ‘to the annoyance of or in a manner likely to annoy any other person’ unquote. In the past, it has been comparatively rare for such complaints to be made to the Police because in most cases the person directly importuned was perforce willing, or eager, to buy the ticket offered.

However, statistics on recent prosecutions indicate that the problem is growing, mainly in respect of the organized reselling in public at exhorbitant prices of Hong Kong/Macau ferry, hydrofoil and jetfoil tickets. This usually takes place in the vicinity of the Macau ferry wharf.

The Places of Public Entertainment Ordinance prohibits the sale of tickets for public entertainment in certain public places, or at a price exceeding that stipulated by the organizer or promoter of the entertainment. It is considered that similar provision should be made in the Summary Offences Ordinance in respect of travel tickets. This Bill, therefore, seeks to make it an offence for any person to sell in a public place, at a price exceeding the authorized price, a ticket or voucher issued for travel on any type of public conveyance.

Provision is made to cover all modes of public transport to prevent the so called ‘scalpers’ transferring their attention to other areas, such as for example the resale of Kowloon-Canton Railway tickets during the Lunar New Year period.

Final words

So buying ferry tickets from a tout might save you money, but some words of advice:

  • is the ticket actually cheaper than the advertised price?
  • can you actually make the departure time on the ticket?
  • is the ticket to your preferred destination, or the less popular Taipa or Kowloon terminals?

And finally – if the touts have bought up all of the tickets for the next ferry sailing, there is always the option to buy an ticket from the “legitimate” office and join the standby line.

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